Diorissimo

Diorissimo is a landmark floral from 1956, built around a note that was then revolutionary: lily-of-the-valley. The opening is a crisp gust of green leaves and bergamot, cool and almost bitter, before the heart unfurls a dense bouquet of lily-of-the-valley, lilac, jasmine, lily, ylang-ylang, amaryllis, rosemary and boronia. It is a white floral with a green spine, more garden than boudoir, and it smells unmistakably of another era. The base is the surprise: civet and sandalwood, a faintly animalic, creamy undertow that keeps the flowers from turning soapy and gives the composition a lived-in warmth. Collectors should note that vintage concentrations vary wildly; early eau de toilette and parfum are the most complex, while later bottles lean cleaner and sharper. This suits those who love classic green florals and are willing to accept the civet. It is not a modern, sweet white floral; it is a spring garden after rain, with something faintly wild underneath.

1956年推出的 Diorissimo 以鈴蘭為核心，是當年罕見的單花香結構。前調綠葉與佛手柑帶來清涼微苦的綠意，中調鈴蘭、丁香、茉莉、百合、依蘭、孤挺花、迷迭香與波羅尼亞交織成濃密白花束，基調卻以麝香貓與檀香收尾，微動物感令花香不至於流於皂感。整體是白花為主、綠意貫穿的經典西普式花香，氣質優雅而帶點野性。適合喜愛老派綠花、能接受麝香貓的藏家；春日白天、正式場合皆宜。選購時留意版本，早期淡香水與香精層次最豐富，後期版本較潔淨銳利。